Hidden Tokyo: A Guide to Yanesen ( Yanaka, Nezu & Sendagi )
Living in Yanesen – Insights and Stories from a Local Guide
Beyond the first impressions and "must-see" spots, Yanesen reveals its true character through the quiet rhythms of daily life. In this series, we look past the landmarks to explore the neighborhood as a place where people live, work, and grow. These are the stories of the familiar streets, morning routines, and small, meaningful moments that make Yanesen not just a destination, but a home..
◆ Episode 4: My Favorite Places to Eat in Yanesen (Part 1)
In this ongoing series, I share glimpses of daily life in Yanesen—Tokyo’s nostalgic neighborhood where old and new quietly coexist. This time, I’d like to introduce a few of my personal favorite places to eat. They’re not chosen by rankings or reviews, but simply by affection—places I return to whenever I want to enjoy a good meal and the warm, unpretentious spirit of this community.
・Hantei (串揚げ はん亭)
If I had to name just one restaurant that represents Yanesen for me, it would be Hantei.
I pass by this three-story wooden building almost every day—it was originally built around 1912 as a geta strap wholesaler, later used as a dormitory in the 1970s, and eventually restored into its current form after a road expansion project. The building’s traditional gate and beautifully preserved interior make dining here feel like stepping back in time.
The specialty is kushiage—deep-fried skewers made with seasonal ingredients, perfectly paired with sake or wine. The menu is “chef’s choice,” but my personal favorites are the tiny river crabs and sweet potato skewers. When those appear, I can’t help but smile.
Hantei is one of Yanesen’s most beloved dining spots, so reservations are highly recommended (though you might get lucky at lunchtime). If you have time, it’s a wonderful place to end your day in Yanesen.
📍Address: 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 1 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: Lunch: 11:30 am–2pm (last order) Dinner: 5pm–10pm (last order) Closed on Mondays.
・CIBI Tokyo Store
Another favorite of mine is CIBI Tokyo, the Japanese branch of a Melbourne-born café brand. You can find cafés like this all over central Tokyo—in Shibuya, Azabu, or Ginza—but here in Yanesen, it feels especially at home. The atmosphere is relaxed, English is spoken, and it’s a comfortable spot for visitors from abroad.
Breakfast is particularly popular with international travelers, and lunch offers simple but satisfying dishes made with fresh local ingredients. Having lived in the U.S. myself, I’d say the portions might feel a little modest to Western appetites—but everything tastes great.
CIBI also sells Japanese hand towels, kitchen goods, and other small gifts, making it a lovely place to pick up souvenirs after a meal.
📍Address: 3-37-11 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 3 min walk from Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line) or 8 min walk from Nippori Station (JR/Keisei Line)
⏰Opening hours: 8:30am-4:30pm weekday / 8am-5:30pm weekend.
