Hidden Tokyo: A Guide to Yanesen ( Yanaka, Nezu & Sendagi )
Shops & Boutiques
Yanesen is full of delightful, character-rich shops, but the selection here highlights places that local residents genuinely value. Rather than tourist-focused souvenir stores, you’ll find boutiques where people from the neighborhood shop for gifts or everyday items—stores known for quality, craftsmanship, and the kind of charm that rewards slow browsing.
Many of these shops also tend to resonate especially well with international visitors, offering pieces that travel beautifully as meaningful mementos.
Some stores appear in our Living in Yanesen column or other pages, so feel free to explore those as well.
Kaiun Yanaka-dō
Kaiun Yanaka-dō specializes in lucky charms and zodiac-themed goods inspired by traditional Japanese culture. The store is filled with bright colors, small treasures, and charming figurines—especially their famous maneki-neko (beckoning cat) collection. It’s a favorite destination for visitors hoping to bring good fortune back home. Even if you’re not superstitious, the warm atmosphere and charming displays make this shop a lovely find just beyond the bustle of Yanaka Ginza. Set slightly apart from the main shopping street, it offers a calmer pocket of Yanaka where you can browse at your own pace. A small item from here may end up being one of the happiest—and most personal—souvenirs of your trip.
💡Tip: Most of the maneki-neko here are hand-painted, so each one has its own quirks and personality. Take a slow look around—you may find a one-of-a-kind lucky cat that feels like it was made just for you.
📍Address: 5-4-3 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
🚃Access: 6 min walk from Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 10:30am-5:30pm, closed Mon (following weekday if a national holiday)
Kikuju-dō Isetatsu
Step into this long-established paper shop in Sendagi, where traditional Edo chiyogami designs have been lovingly preserved and produced for generations. The shelves are lined with hand-printed patterns featuring seasonal motifs, playful folk themes, and elegant geometric styles—each sheet crafted with remarkable precision. It’s an inspiring stop whether you’re looking for fine paper for writing, wrapping, or framing as art. Many visitors find themselves spending longer than expected, simply admiring the colors and texture. If you’re seeking a meaningful, lightweight gift with deep roots in Tokyo craftsmanship, this shop is a beautiful place to start.
💡Tip: Check the small boxed items and envelopes near the counter—many feature patterns not available in larger sheets, making them perfect, easy-to-carry souvenirs.
📍Address: 2-18-9 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo
🚃Access: 5 min walk from Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 10am-6pm
GOAT - STATIONERY & GOODS
Quietly tucked away on a narrow street in Sendagi, GOAT is more than just a stationery store—it’s a carefully curated design haven for lovers of fine paper goods and tools. Focusing primarily on Made-in-Tokyo and other Japanese-crafted items, GOAT features an edgy mix of elevated everyday essentials: from collaborations with illustrator Masu Eriko to premium "LIFE" Noble series notebooks, pen cases, and unique writing instruments. The small shop layout encourages slow browsing, allowing you to discover those little treasures that reflect your personality. The atmosphere is calm and welcoming, making it easy to linger and appreciate the thoughtful selection.
📍Address: 2-39-5 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo
🚃Access: 3 min walk from Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: Fri: 1pm–6pm; Mon, Sat, Sun, & Public holidays: 12pm–6pm.
Uenosakuragi Atari
Uenosakuragi Atari is a thoughtfully restored complex of traditional wooden buildings, reimagined as a relaxed gathering spot for food, drinks, and local culture. Tucked away on a quiet street near Yanaka Cemetery, it offers a calm contrast to busier sightseeing areas. Highlights include Think, an exceptional artisan bakery where every item is delicious; their "Milk France" and sweet pastries are particular standouts and well worth the wait if there is a line. The complex also features Oshi Olive, a specialty shop focused on high-quality olive oils and vinegars, and Yanaka Beer Hall, where you can enjoy craft beer in a casual setting. The atmosphere feels unhurried and welcoming—a perfect place to slow down and savor the neighborhood.
💡Tip: Tip: Most venues close relatively early (around 8pm), so it’s ideal for a daytime stop or an afternoon drink while exploring Yanesen.
📍Address: 2-15-6 Uenosakuragi, Taito-ku, Tokyo
🚃Access: 10 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line) or Nippori Station (JR/Keisei Line)
⏰Opening hours: 11am-8pm (LO 7:30pm), closed Mon