Hidden Tokyo: A Guide to Yanesen ( Yanaka, Nezu & Sendagi )
Living in Yanesen – Insights and Stories from a Local Guide
When visitors come to Yanesen—the charming area that links Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi—they often arrive searching for "Old Tokyo." But for those of us who call this place home, the true beauty of Yanesen extends far beyond its retro streets or wooden houses. It's discovered in the small, everyday moments: the sound of children playing near a temple, the aroma of coffee from a tiny café, or the neighbor who greets you by name each morning.
I’m Iwao, your local guide and a long-time resident of this cherished neighborhood. In this series, I share what life in Yanesen truly feels like—far beyond the guidebooks—through the stories, places, and encounters that make this corner of Tokyo so special.
◆ Episode 1: The Charm of Everyday Life in Yanesen
As a long-time resident, what I cherish most about Yanesen is the effortless freedom to simply be yourself. Life here doesn’t demand pretension or performance; it grants you the comfort of living at your own, unhurried pace, just as you are.
Across Tokyo, particularly in its central districts, massive redevelopment projects are rapidly transforming the cityscape. Streets that once possessed unique individuality are gradually becoming uniform, sleek, and functionally efficient. This is progress, of course—cleaner, more convenient, perhaps more stylish. Yet, there’s an underlying sadness in watching long-time residents being displaced and the local culture slowly receding from sight.
Yanesen — located just three subway stops from Otemachi, Tokyo’s main business district near Tokyo Station—has somehow managed to resist that tide. The neighborhood still holds the genuine atmosphere of Tokyo from half a century ago, not preserved as a museum piece, but alive as a place where people genuinely live. Here, you can easily chat with the shopkeeper at a small grocery store, hear children laughing on their way home, and find yourself joining neighbors at a local festival.
New cafés and shops, often opened by younger generations, blend seamlessly into the old streets rather than aggressively replacing them. It is this gentle coexistence of the past and present—this enduring human warmth amid the quiet nostalgia—that makes living in Yanesen so deeply comforting.
◆ Episode 2: Nezu Shrine and Yanaka Ginza
At the heart of Yanesen lies Nezu Shrine, an elegant, centuries-old Shinto shrine that feels both grand and intimately familiar. For visitors from abroad, its vibrant vermilion halls and the iconic rows of torii gates at Komagome Inari Shrine are truly picture-perfect photo opportunities. But for those of us who call this neighborhood home, Nezu Shrine holds a deeply personal significance.
For me, it’s a space seamlessly woven into the tapestry of daily life: it serves as a playground for children, a central gathering place during local festivals, and a sacred space for weddings, blessings, and farewells. It’s also, quite literally, on my route to the neighborhood Starbucks. Whether in spring, when cherry blossoms and azaleas burst into bloom, or in autumn, when festivals fill the streets with music and color, I find myself drawn to the grounds almost instinctively. Early mornings are my favorite time—the grounds are hushed, and the air carries a serene, sacred calm that feels utterly timeless.
Just a short walk away, Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street offers a distinctly different kind of energy. Lined with independent, family-run shops rather than corporate chains, this is where the neighborhood truly comes alive. As the sun begins to set, locals stop by for daily groceries, linger to chat with shopkeepers, and exchange a few words with friends. In summer, lively festivals and bon odori dances fill the street with infectious laughter and the soft glow of lantern light.
From the top of the “Yuyake Dandan” (Sunset Stairs), the view isn’t spectacular in the typical postcard sense—it is simply a humble street scene under a vast Tokyo sky—but it beautifully captures the very soul of Yanesen: ordinary, nostalgic, and quietly, resiliently full of life.
Among the many shops, one of my personal favorites is ”Sendagi Koshizuka”, a long-established butcher known for its signature corned beef, which is unlike anything you’ll taste elsewhere. Although regulations unfortunately prevent you from taking the fresh product abroad, several nearby cafés serve sandwiches and dishes made with it—a must-try local flavor that is absolutely worth seeking out during your visit.
◆ Episode 3: Universities and the Spirit of Yanesen
When you walk through the Yanesen area, you can feel a quiet undercurrent of intellectual and creative energy — and that’s no coincidence. Much of it has been nurtured by two of Japan’s most prestigious universities: The University of Tokyo (Todai) and Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), both located just a short stroll away.
Todai, once the Imperial University, has shaped the neighborhood’s character for over a century. From the Meiji era, professors and students alike have lived around Nezu and Sendagi, bringing with them a spirit of scholarship and curiosity. The area is famously associated with literary giants like Mori Ōgai and Natsume Sōseki, both of whom once called this district home. Even today, you’ll often see students studying over coffee in local cafés, while shop owners proudly display posters supporting university clubs or cultural events — a small but heartwarming sign of the mutual support between the campus and the community.
Not far away, Geidai brings a more experimental and artistic spirit to the area. Though smaller in size, it gathers some of Japan’s most distinctive and experimental young artists. Many local galleries showcase works by Geidai students and alumni, and numerous cafés and restaurants feature their art on the walls. Some even double as informal “hangouts” for art students, where you might find them working part-time, exhibiting their pieces, or simply sketching between classes. In a sense, these spots have become extensions of Geidai’s creative campus life.
Every year, the neighborhood comes alive with two major campus festivals — Todai’s May Festival (Gogatsusai) in spring and Geidai’s Art Festival (Geisai) in early autumn. The latter transforms the entire area around Ueno Park and Yanaka into a celebration of art and music, offering visitors a chance to experience performances and exhibitions up close. If you plan to go, be sure to check Geidai’s website in advance, as many of the mini-concerts (ranging from traditional Japanese music to rock and classical) require free but reserved tickets.
Together, Todai and Geidai have helped make Yanesen what it is today — a district where intellect and artistry coexist, and where learning extends beyond the classroom into the everyday streets and cafés of old Tokyo.
Closed for seismic reinforcement work until September 2027.
◆ Episode 4: My Favorite Places to Eat in Yanesen (Part 1)
In this ongoing series, I share glimpses of daily life in Yanesen—Tokyo’s nostalgic neighborhood where old and new quietly coexist. This time, I’d like to introduce a few of my personal favorite places to eat. They’re not chosen by rankings or reviews, but simply by affection—places I return to whenever I want to enjoy a good meal and the warm, unpretentious spirit of this community.
・Hantei (串揚げ はん亭)
If I had to name just one restaurant that represents Yanesen for me, it would be Hantei.
I pass by this three-story wooden building almost every day—it was originally built around 1912 as a geta strap wholesaler, later used as a dormitory in the 1970s, and eventually restored into its current form after a road expansion project. The building’s traditional gate and beautifully preserved interior make dining here feel like stepping back in time.
The specialty is kushiage—deep-fried skewers made with seasonal ingredients, perfectly paired with sake or wine. The menu is “chef’s choice,” but my personal favorites are the tiny river crabs and sweet potato skewers. When those appear, I can’t help but smile.
Hantei is one of Yanesen’s most beloved dining spots, so reservations are highly recommended (though you might get lucky at lunchtime). If you have time, it’s a wonderful place to end your day in Yanesen.
📍Address: 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 1 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: Lunch: 11:30 am–2pm (last order) Dinner: 5pm–10pm (last order) Closed on Mondays.
・CIBI Tokyo Store
Another favorite of mine is CIBI Tokyo, the Japanese branch of a Melbourne-born café brand. You can find cafés like this all over central Tokyo—in Shibuya, Azabu, or Ginza—but here in Yanesen, it feels especially at home. The atmosphere is relaxed, English is spoken, and it’s a comfortable spot for visitors from abroad.
Breakfast is particularly popular with international travelers, and lunch offers simple but satisfying dishes made with fresh local ingredients. Having lived in the U.S. myself, I’d say the portions might feel a little modest to Western appetites—but everything tastes great.
CIBI also sells Japanese hand towels, kitchen goods, and other small gifts, making it a lovely place to pick up souvenirs after a meal.
📍Address: 3-37-11 Sendagi, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 3 min walk from Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line) or 8 min walk from Nippori Station (JR/Keisei Line)
⏰Opening hours: 8:30am-4:30pm weekday / 8am-5:30pm weekend.
◆ Episode 5: Why I Chose to Live in Yanesen
Unlike some of my neighbors, I didn’t grow up in Yanesen. I first moved here as a graduate student, renting a small room near Nezu Shrine. Since then—more than twenty years now—I’ve lived in different corners around the area: Yushima, Kita-Ueno, Ikenohata, and finally back to Nezu. Looking back, if I had to explain why I’ve stayed here so long, the answer is simple: I just like it here.
Yanesen sits between two of Japan’s most prestigious universities—The University of Tokyo and Tokyo University of the Arts—so the neighborhood naturally carries a quiet cultural and academic atmosphere. Yet it’s also wonderfully livable. You can do almost everything on foot or by bicycle, and the area changes beautifully with the seasons: cherry blossoms in Yanaka Cemetery, azaleas at Nezu Shrine, lotus flowers in Shinobazu Pond, autumn leaves in Ueno Park.
Life here is also practical. Schools, hospitals, and public facilities are all nearby; the streets are safe; and central Tokyo is just minutes away. But to be honest, those conveniences aren’t really the reason I stay. Many parts of Tokyo can offer that.
What makes Yanesen different is its human warmth—something that still survives here despite being in the heart of one of the world’s largest cities. Some people move here seeking that sense of community. In my case, I don’t necessarily crave deep neighborhood ties, but I appreciate knowing that they exist—that quiet sense of connection you can feel even without saying much.
So why do I live in Yanesen? I can’t give a perfect answer. It’s not about logic or convenience. It’s simply that this place feels right. For me, Yanesen is a neighborhood where ordinary life in Tokyo still feels personal, grounded, and somehow comforting—a place where I can just be myself.
◆ Episode 6: My Favorite Places to Eat in Yanesen (Part 2)
In Episode 4, I shared a few of my go-to spots for local food in Yanesen — but there were still some that I couldn’t leave out. So here’s Part 2, with two more of my personal favorites.
For something a little different, Babu-Bal offers a mix of Vietnamese and Japanese flavors in a cozy local setting. The dishes have been slightly adapted for Japanese tastes, but the owner-chef—who has roots both in Vietnam and Japan—knows how to bring out authentic flavor.
I often visit for lunch, where the pho and curry dishes are generous, delicious, and reasonably priced—comfort food in every sense. My personal favorite is the bún chả, a classic Hanoi-style dish of grilled pork with rice noodles and herbs. It’s rare to find bún chả in this neighborhood, which makes Babu-Bal all the more special.
In the evening, you can enjoy both Japanese and Vietnamese small plates with drinks. The staff speak English, so it’s an easy place to relax even if you’re new to the area. For those wanting a casual yet distinctly local dining experience in Nezu, Babu-Bal is a hidden gem.
📍Address: 1-1-19-101 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 2 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 11:30am–2pm (L.O. 2pm), 5:30pm–11pm (L.O. 10pm), closed Tue, lunch only on Mon.
This one is almost too local to introduce here — a hidden gem known mostly to residents. The name roughly means “The Eighth Denzemon’s Eatery,” and it serves Japanese teishoku, or set meals, that you could happily eat every day.
The owner runs the place with precision and warmth, creating a calm, homely atmosphere. The side dishes, made with plenty of seasonal vegetables, reflect the subtle, well-balanced flavors that Japanese people love.
Every main dish is excellent, but my personal favorite is the hamburger steak with lotus root. If you want to experience the kind of everyday Japanese meal that feels both nourishing and comforting — with freshly cooked rice, soup, and pickles — this is the place.
It’s a small restaurant, open only for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday, and it often gets crowded. I recommend making a reservation if you plan to visit.
📍Address: 6-1-27 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 10 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 11am–3pm, closed Mon, Tue.
Yanesen’s charm lies not only in its history and scenery, but also in these two, quietly excellent places — the kind that locals treasure and visitors remember long after they’ve gone home.
◆ Episode 7: The Cats of Yanaka
Once known mainly as an old downtown neighborhood filled with temples and narrow backstreets, Yanaka has also become famous—both in Japan and abroad—as “the town of cats.” The area’s quiet alleys and temple grounds have always made it a natural place for people and cats to coexist.
Back in the late 1980s through the 1990s, when spaying and neutering were still uncommon, stray cats could be found everywhere, blending easily into everyday life. Even around twenty years ago, when I first moved to the Yanesen area, it was still common to see cats lounging in temple courtyards or napping in the shade of narrow lanes.
These days, thanks to the efforts of local residents and volunteer groups, more cats live under proper care, and the number of strays has gradually decreased—a quiet but positive change.
A few years before the pandemic, there were still a handful of stray and outdoor cats around my neighborhood. One of them—a chubby, timid orange tabby—often caught my eye. He started hanging around a nearby house, sunbathing under the eaves, and eventually began receiving food from the family there. I nicknamed him Gar-chan, and over time he became a familiar presence on my walks. Even during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, Gar-chan kept to his own rhythm, wandering about as if nothing had changed. Then one day, I noticed a small note posted near his usual spot: Gar-chan had been adopted by a local family who wanted to give him a permanent home. It was wonderful news—but I couldn’t help feeling a little wistful, knowing I wouldn’t be seeing him around anymore.
Stories like Gar-chan’s are becoming more common in Yanaka. The reduction of stray cats is a good sign—a result of dedicated community care and protection efforts that will surely continue. Yet at the same time, Yanaka’s image as “the cat town” has taken on a life of its own. Since the early 2000s, as tourism promotion and social media grew, the area’s “cat culture” became part of its identity. Cat-shaped sweets, feline-themed goods, and cozy cafés line the local shopping streets, attracting visitors from around the world. Some shops even have friendly kanban neko—resident cats who quietly welcome guests, just as they always have.
It’s a curious thing: the real cats of Yanaka have grown fewer, yet the idea of the “cat town” continues to spread far and wide. Perhaps that’s simply the way Yanaka evolves—holding on to its warmth and charm, even as its stories change shape. So next time you’re here, take a stroll through this “town of cats,” and enjoy discovering its feline touches scattered through the streets.
Yanesen’s beauty lies not just in what you see, but in what you remember—small, quiet moments that stay with you, long after the cats have wandered out of sight.
◆ Episode 8: My Favorite Places to Eat in Yanesen (Part 3)
In previous episodes, I’ve shared some of my favorite spots to sit down and enjoy a meal in Yanesen. But eating here isn’t only about restaurants — it’s also about picking up something delicious to go and savoring it as you stroll through quiet streets or rest in a nearby park. In this third part, I’ll introduce two takeout-only places that embody the relaxed, everyday charm of Yanesen life.
・Nezu no Taiyaki (根津のたいやき)
I’ve probably eaten their taiyaki more than a hundred times. My first encounter was about 30 years ago, when a friend who lived in Yanesen brought some as a gift. The shop was run by the founder back then, but even under the second generation, the taste remains the same — it’s truly one of Tokyo’s most beloved taiyaki shops.
For those unfamiliar, taiyaki is a fish-shaped cake filled with sweet red bean paste — crispy on the outside, soft inside, and best enjoyed freshly made.
Here, each taiyaki is carefully baked one by one, filled with red bean paste that reaches right to the tip of the tail. The batter has a fragrant aroma and a slightly chewy texture that locals can’t resist.
It’s a true neighborhood classic, known by almost everyone in Nezu. The shop usually opens only from around 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekdays, so if you’re visiting Nezu Shrine during that time, don’t miss your chance to stop by.
📍Address: 1-23-9-104 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 5 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 10am–2pm, closed Sat, Sun, and holidays.
Just a short walk from Nezu Shrine, Ichiroan is a traditional Japanese confectionery shop founded in 1903. Small and unpretentious, it captures the timeless spirit of old Tokyo. Behind its glass showcase, you’ll find a beautiful array of wagashi — delicate Japanese sweets crafted with seasonal motifs.
While everything here is worth trying, the Yau Monaka (a crisp wafer filled with red bean paste) is the shop’s signature item — refined, nostalgic, and full of character.
If you prefer something more portable, try their dorayaki or hanabira mochi, which are individually wrapped and perfect for enjoying as you stroll through the neighborhood.
📍Address: 2-14-9 Mukougaoka, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 10 min walk from Nezu Station or Sendagi Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 9am–6pm (until 5pm on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays). Closed on Tuesdays.
Even without tables or menus, these little takeout spots reflect the same warmth and authenticity that define Yanesen — a neighborhood where even a simple snack can become part of its quiet, everyday story.
