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Living in Yanesen – Insights and Stories from a Local Guide

Beyond the first impressions and "must-see" spots, Yanesen reveals its true character through the quiet rhythms of daily life. In this series, we look past the landmarks to explore the neighborhood as a place where people live, work, and grow. These are the stories of the familiar streets, morning routines, and small, meaningful moments that make Yanesen not just a destination, but a home..

◆ Episode 3: Universities and the Spirit of Yanesen

When you walk through the Yanesen area, you can feel a quiet undercurrent of intellectual and creative energy — and that’s no coincidence. Much of it has been nurtured by two of Japan’s most prestigious universities: The University of Tokyo (Todai) and Tokyo University of the Arts (Geidai), both located just a short stroll away.

Todai, once the Imperial University, has shaped the neighborhood’s character for over a century. From the Meiji era, professors and students alike have lived around Nezu and Sendagi, bringing with them a spirit of scholarship and curiosity. The area is famously associated with literary giants like Mori Ōgai and Natsume Sōseki, both of whom once called this district home. Even today, you’ll often see students studying over coffee in local cafés, while shop owners proudly display posters supporting university clubs or cultural events — a small but heartwarming sign of the mutual support between the campus and the community.

Not far away, Geidai brings a more experimental and artistic spirit to the area. Though smaller in size, it gathers some of Japan’s most distinctive and experimental young artists. Many local galleries showcase works by Geidai students and alumni, and numerous cafés and restaurants feature their art on the walls. Some even double as informal “hangouts” for art students, where you might find them working part-time, exhibiting their pieces, or simply sketching between classes. In a sense, these spots have become extensions of Geidai’s creative campus life.

Every year, the neighborhood comes alive with two major campus festivals — Todai’s May Festival (Gogatsusai) in spring and Geidai’s Art Festival (Geisai) in early autumn. The latter transforms the entire area around Ueno Park and Yanaka into a celebration of art and music, offering visitors a chance to experience performances and exhibitions up close. If you plan to go, be sure to check Geidai’s website in advance, as many of the mini-concerts (ranging from traditional Japanese music to rock and classical) require free but reserved tickets.

Together, Todai and Geidai have helped make Yanesen what it is today — a district where intellect and artistry coexist, and where learning extends beyond the classroom into the everyday streets and cafés of old Tokyo.

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