Hidden Tokyo: A Guide to Yanesen ( Yanaka, Nezu & Sendagi )
Living in Yanesen – Insights and Stories from a Local Guide
Beyond the first impressions and "must-see" spots, Yanesen reveals its true character through the quiet rhythms of daily life. In this series, we look past the landmarks to explore the neighborhood as a place where people live, work, and grow. These are the stories of the familiar streets, morning routines, and small, meaningful moments that make Yanesen not just a destination, but a home..
◆ Episode 6: My Favorite Places to Eat in Yanesen (Part 2)
In Episode 4, I shared a few of my go-to spots for local food in Yanesen — but there were still some that I couldn’t leave out. So here’s Part 2, with two more of my personal favorites.
For something a little different, Babu-Bal offers a mix of Vietnamese and Japanese flavors in a cozy local setting. The dishes have been slightly adapted for Japanese tastes, but the owner-chef—who has roots both in Vietnam and Japan—knows how to bring out authentic flavor.
I often visit for lunch, where the pho and curry dishes are generous, delicious, and reasonably priced—comfort food in every sense. My personal favorite is the bún chả, a classic Hanoi-style dish of grilled pork with rice noodles and herbs. It’s rare to find bún chả in this neighborhood, which makes Babu-Bal all the more special.
In the evening, you can enjoy both Japanese and Vietnamese small plates with drinks. The staff speak English, so it’s an easy place to relax even if you’re new to the area. For those wanting a casual yet distinctly local dining experience in Nezu, Babu-Bal is a hidden gem.
📍Address: 1-1-19-101 Nezu, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 2 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 11:30am–2pm (L.O. 2pm), 5:30pm–11pm (L.O. 10pm), closed Tue, lunch only on Mon.
This one is almost too local to introduce here — a hidden gem known mostly to residents. The name roughly means “The Eighth Denzemon’s Eatery,” and it serves Japanese teishoku, or set meals, that you could happily eat every day.
The owner runs the place with precision and warmth, creating a calm, homely atmosphere. The side dishes, made with plenty of seasonal vegetables, reflect the subtle, well-balanced flavors that Japanese people love.
Every main dish is excellent, but my personal favorite is the hamburger steak with lotus root. If you want to experience the kind of everyday Japanese meal that feels both nourishing and comforting — with freshly cooked rice, soup, and pickles — this is the place.
It’s a small restaurant, open only for lunch from Wednesday to Sunday, and it often gets crowded. I recommend making a reservation if you plan to visit.
📍Address: 6-1-27 Yanaka, Taito-ku, Tokyo Google Map >
🚃Access: 10 min walk from Nezu Station (Chiyoda Line)
⏰Opening hours: 11am–3pm, closed Mon, Tue.
Yanesen’s charm lies not only in its history and scenery, but also in these two, quietly excellent places — the kind that locals treasure and visitors remember long after they’ve gone home.
