Hidden Tokyo: A Guide to Yanesen ( Yanaka, Nezu & Sendagi )
Living in Yanesen – Insights and Stories from a Local Guide
Beyond the first impressions and "must-see" spots, Yanesen reveals its true character through the quiet rhythms of daily life. In this series, we look past the landmarks to explore the neighborhood as a place where people live, work, and grow. These are the stories of the familiar streets, morning routines, and small, meaningful moments that make Yanesen not just a destination, but a home..
◆ Episode 2: Nezu Shrine and Yanaka Ginza
At the heart of Yanesen lies Nezu Shrine, an elegant, centuries-old Shinto shrine that feels both grand and intimately familiar. For visitors from abroad, its vibrant vermilion halls and the iconic rows of torii gates at Komagome Inari Shrine are truly picture-perfect photo opportunities. But for those of us who call this neighborhood home, Nezu Shrine holds a deeply personal significance.
For me, it’s a space seamlessly woven into the tapestry of daily life: it serves as a playground for children, a central gathering place during local festivals, and a sacred space for weddings, blessings, and farewells. It’s also, quite literally, on my route to the neighborhood Starbucks. Whether in spring, when cherry blossoms and azaleas burst into bloom, or in autumn, when festivals fill the streets with music and color, I find myself drawn to the grounds almost instinctively. Early mornings are my favorite time—the grounds are hushed, and the air carries a serene, sacred calm that feels utterly timeless.
Just a short walk away, Yanaka Ginza Shopping Street offers a distinctly different kind of energy. Lined with independent, family-run shops rather than corporate chains, this is where the neighborhood truly comes alive. As the sun begins to set, locals stop by for daily groceries, linger to chat with shopkeepers, and exchange a few words with friends. In summer, lively festivals and bon odori dances fill the street with infectious laughter and the soft glow of lantern light.
From the top of the “Yuyake Dandan” (Sunset Stairs), the view isn’t spectacular in the typical postcard sense—it is simply a humble street scene under a vast Tokyo sky—but it beautifully captures the very soul of Yanesen: ordinary, nostalgic, and quietly, resiliently full of life.
Among the many shops, one of my personal favorites is ”Sendagi Koshizuka”, a long-established butcher known for its signature corned beef, which is unlike anything you’ll taste elsewhere. Although regulations unfortunately prevent you from taking the fresh product abroad, several nearby cafés serve sandwiches and dishes made with it—a must-try local flavor that is absolutely worth seeking out during your visit.
